Looking at the earth

In this part of the route, we saw quarries between two plots of vines. But in contrast to the vineyard activity, theirs seems to be much quieter today. For most of the quarries we saw, extraction has ceased or is devoted to the production of aggregates rather than solid stone. It was during our experience in Vienna that we found a quarry still in operation, south of the capital. Owned by the company Ecker Stein, for whom we worked, the quarry is still used for solid stone to cover the needs of the company, but also to supply the stonemasons of the cathedral. Today, St. Margarethen's has been quarried in the same place for centuries. And it is found surrounded by vines in the Mittleburgenland region. When we had to find a place to start our search in Hungary, we decided to opt for this strategy. Look at the maps, look at the territory. Because we arrived in a space, which could be called more hostile, where the language and our Germanic landmarks that we had built up were no longer there. We therefore referred to our knowledge of the terrain.

The expedition started in the Côte d'Or region. A name that pays tribute to the colours of the vine leaves in autumn. But it is also a region that could leave you speechless during a walk through one of its villages. The architecture, from the floor to the walls, is made entirely of stone. If you are careful, you will also find a large number of quarries. Burgundian names are internationally recognised for the quality of their stones and even protected by an IGP (Indication Géographique Contrôlée). But our dear Burgundy is not an isolated case. In France, as elsewhere, it can be said that "where there is good wine, there is beautiful stone". One of the common characteristics of these two activities, and not the least, is the quality of the limestone soils. For wine production, it is one of the most important factors. A geographical index that also determines the presence of stone quarries.

In the landscapes we are travelling through, this indicator has therefore become very important to us. Since our departure, the relationship has proved to be true every time. The first big wine region we discovered was around Vienna. To the west of the city, embracing both banks of the Danube, there are several well-known and renowned wine regions, such as Wachau, Kamptal or Treisental. Famous for their wines, it is also in these regions that we found a very particular and interesting vernacular stone architecture. This includes the use of rubble stone in dry masonry for the construction of walls and fences.

Bauhütte: Workshop system for the restoration and preservation of the cathedral and the skills of the stonemasons.

Hooks: Architectural ornamentation in the shape of a cabbage or rose, widely used during the Gothic period.

The road is a good way to bring out our instincts. The mind is on the lookout for what we see, and the territory before our eyes takes on a whole new dimension. As well as being the support for our path and routes, it is also a geographical indicator. When a church tower appears on the horizon, we know that the next village is near. When we find the Danube, we know we are on the right path. But also, we always scan the mountains and the relief to see if there is a hole, cream-coloured, which would indicate a quarry. As a good observer, we also noticed that where there are vines... there is stone.

       Captions from left to right and from top to bottom:

1. Views of the riverbanks in the wine-growing regions of western Vienna.

2. Well with integrated stone trough.

3. Stone quarry on the banks of the Danube near Vienna.

4. Melk Abbey, Wachau region, Austria

5. Chimney of a dryer in the Wachau region

6. Vineyards around Etyek, Hungary.

7. Vineyards around Etyek, Hungary.

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Typical farm in the Wachau region, Austria.

Former quarry on the banks of the Danube, Wachau region.

From Burgundy to Austria

The vine as a geographical indicator

Today we left the banks of the Danube for those of Lake Balaton. On the hillsides of the small village of Vállus, we find vineyards and an interesting vernacular heritage. For the moment, we have a few stonecutters' tracks. One of them is said to be a hermit, an orthodox monk and a stonemason who built his own church...